Ecuador II (August 8th - August 12th)

Chugchillán was perfect for walks into the nature. Morning walk showed not only beautiful green hills covered by fields but also hard work that created them. Afternoon walk was a little bit longer than expected and turned already paid accommodation to a mere luggage locker. The adventurers underestimated Latino-American perception of time and believed the locals who claimed that walking through a valley back to Chugchillán will take only two hours. After four hours of walking on barely visible paths the darkness came and imprisoned them without any equipment in the mountains. Attempts to continue and light the way by cameras proved to be too dangerous. The night and cold had to be outlasted at the spot.

Majority of women from the mountains still dress traditionally

Literally chilling-out overnight in the mountains

View of the valley near Chugchillán

Don Madonarra on a walk home after unexpected night in the Andes

Luckily, nothing bad happened during 10 hours of waiting for sunrise and the travelers could enjoy relaxing day in their next destination, Baños. Except the thermal baths, for which is this town famous, the adventurers experienced adrenaline excitement during fast and furious drive to the mountain pass in their buggies. Full of energy again, they set off further south.

Enjoying thermal baths next to a waterfall in Baños

Driving buggies around Baños

The excited buggy drivers

Next two days were spent mostly in a bus with overnight stop in Macas and Loja and a short afternoon visit of Gualaquiza, a small town, which outskirts reminded them of African villages. Unfortunately, in none of these places a satisfactory tour to indigenous villages in the Amazon (which they intended to visit) was found and they carried on.

Dwelling near Gualaquiza

The last stop before crossing border to Peru was Vilcabamba, which was described in 3-year old Lonely Planet as a peaceful and almost forgotten village. Nevertheless, "Lonely Planet effect" (as expeditionists internally call a transformation of an unknown sight to a touristic spot thanks to praise in this guidebook) turned it in the meantime into a hub for American travelers and fortune seekers. English was spoken at every corner, prices were adjusted to U.S. purchase power and mountains were full of pompous ranches under construction. Nevertheless, a pleasant day was spent here, mainly thanks to a horse ride in the nearby mountains.

A horse being prepared for Miguel Hudeiro

El Fredovito on a horse ride around Vilcabamba

It is important to mention that American influence is by far not an exception in Ecuador. Local official currency is U.S. dollar and statistics of tourism show that U.S. citizens are the most numerous group of visitors here. Consequently, restaurants with English menus full of junk food and ambiente with American pop music are not difficult to find, in contrast to previously visited countries. One theory that adventurers came up with is that Ecuador kind of looks like American east coast countryside, but still keeps its wilderness and sense of remoteness. This could explain why they find it such an attractive place for vacations and retirements.

Local donkeys always look cute and funny

May the Maya be with you! :)

Ecuador I (August 3rd - August 7th)

Ecuador gave the adventurers friendly welcome right at the first stop in a small town of Otavalo. Its poncho market, indigenous people in traditional dresses and misty mountains all around have created almost fairy-tale atmosphere. Next day a walk around Laguna Mojanda was on the agenda, experiencing breathing sparse air at almost 3.800 meters above the see level for the first (but definitely not the last) time during the expedition. After visiting small agricultural village of Rubichaca the expeditioners have moved forward to Quito.

Indigenous people of Otavalo

Farmers in Rubichaca

Quito, the capital of Ecuador, made surprisingly good impression mainly for its colonial architecture and relaxed pace. The adventurers enjoyed the view of Quito's roofs from the very top of the Basilica del Voto Nacional. They also didn't miss a chance to buy a pack of nuts from nuns in Santa Calina monastery who are forbidden to leave or even talk to outsiders so the order had to be passed via rotating window.

El Fredovito climbing to the top of the cathedral

Don Madonarra waiting for the order from hidden nuns

What really shall not be missed in Ecuador is to step on equator at Mitad del Mundo, which is only about an hour away from Quito. The official monument with planetarium and randomly walking lamas was quite nice for souvenir shopping but the museum in nearby village provided even more fun. Using experiments, the English speaking guide explained scientific reasons behind the main differences in physical behavior at the north and south hemisphere and the equator itself (such as opposite direction of water rotation, lower weight and endurance etc.). Not to forget, El Fredovito received birthday wishes from the rest of adventurers both from south and north hemisphere!

Lama walking around Mitad del Mundo

Expeditioners right on the equator

A loop around countryside in the middle of Ecuador was on the schedule for the next few days. On late Friday afternoon, expedition arrived to tiny village of Tigua. After realizing that the only "commercial" accommodation costs about 20 dollars per person (official currency here is U.S. dollar), they persuaded a local farmer to provide an empty room in his under-construction house. Always smiling inhabitants proved their friendliness and prepared a big pot full of potatoes and beans. As it gets quite cold after nightfall and there was nowhere else to go, the only program for the evening was a desk game of Eufrat and Tigris.

Eating potatoes from a friendly villager

Adventurers fighting for their kingdoms during Eufrat and Tigris

In the morning, they set off to Zimbahua, famous for its Saturday markets. And it really met its reputation. Mix of different colors, fragrances, sounds and indigenous people created unforgettable moments. On a back of a "camioneta" (local truck), they moved to Laguna Quilotoa. Five-hour long hike in the mountains around the crater in 3.900 meters above the see level was extremely tiring but definitely worth it. Destination for the following day, Chugchilan, was visible from one of the peaks.

Colorful market in Zimbahua

Don Madonarra on the back of a camioneta

Hiking around Laguna Quilotoa

May the Maya be with you! :)