Ecuador II (August 8th - August 12th)

Chugchillán was perfect for walks into the nature. Morning walk showed not only beautiful green hills covered by fields but also hard work that created them. Afternoon walk was a little bit longer than expected and turned already paid accommodation to a mere luggage locker. The adventurers underestimated Latino-American perception of time and believed the locals who claimed that walking through a valley back to Chugchillán will take only two hours. After four hours of walking on barely visible paths the darkness came and imprisoned them without any equipment in the mountains. Attempts to continue and light the way by cameras proved to be too dangerous. The night and cold had to be outlasted at the spot.

Majority of women from the mountains still dress traditionally

Literally chilling-out overnight in the mountains

View of the valley near Chugchillán

Don Madonarra on a walk home after unexpected night in the Andes

Luckily, nothing bad happened during 10 hours of waiting for sunrise and the travelers could enjoy relaxing day in their next destination, Baños. Except the thermal baths, for which is this town famous, the adventurers experienced adrenaline excitement during fast and furious drive to the mountain pass in their buggies. Full of energy again, they set off further south.

Enjoying thermal baths next to a waterfall in Baños

Driving buggies around Baños

The excited buggy drivers

Next two days were spent mostly in a bus with overnight stop in Macas and Loja and a short afternoon visit of Gualaquiza, a small town, which outskirts reminded them of African villages. Unfortunately, in none of these places a satisfactory tour to indigenous villages in the Amazon (which they intended to visit) was found and they carried on.

Dwelling near Gualaquiza

The last stop before crossing border to Peru was Vilcabamba, which was described in 3-year old Lonely Planet as a peaceful and almost forgotten village. Nevertheless, "Lonely Planet effect" (as expeditionists internally call a transformation of an unknown sight to a touristic spot thanks to praise in this guidebook) turned it in the meantime into a hub for American travelers and fortune seekers. English was spoken at every corner, prices were adjusted to U.S. purchase power and mountains were full of pompous ranches under construction. Nevertheless, a pleasant day was spent here, mainly thanks to a horse ride in the nearby mountains.

A horse being prepared for Miguel Hudeiro

El Fredovito on a horse ride around Vilcabamba

It is important to mention that American influence is by far not an exception in Ecuador. Local official currency is U.S. dollar and statistics of tourism show that U.S. citizens are the most numerous group of visitors here. Consequently, restaurants with English menus full of junk food and ambiente with American pop music are not difficult to find, in contrast to previously visited countries. One theory that adventurers came up with is that Ecuador kind of looks like American east coast countryside, but still keeps its wilderness and sense of remoteness. This could explain why they find it such an attractive place for vacations and retirements.

Local donkeys always look cute and funny

May the Maya be with you! :)