After an overnight bus ride from Tupiza, the crew arrived to Potosí, the world's highest city (4.090 m) and UNESCO Heritage site. Visit to the (in)famous silver mines was definitely one of the strongest experiences of the entire expedition. The mines were opened in the colonial period and are still fully operational, despite the dramatic decrease of silver content ratio from 80% (in the 16th century) to mere 2% (today). It is assumed that 8 milion indigenous people and African slaves died here under the harsh working conditions. Unlike the amount of extracted silver, the working conditions have not changed much - the miners are heavilly exposed to poisonous sulfur and cyanide fumes, temperatures ranging from around 0 to up to 40 °C, and dangerous working environment itself (ran-away 2-tones trolleys, leaking gas pipes, 500 dynamite detonations daily). It was exceptionally interesting to spend 3 hours inside the mines, however, the toll was taken in upcoming days when the expeditioners suffered from severe digestion problems caused by the poisonous gases. Visit to the mines is definitely not to be regretted, though.
Rural settlement on the way from Tupiza
Breakfast at one of local market "comedors" in Potosí
Outside of the Potosí mines
Miguel Hudeiro tasting the hard work inside the mines
Don Madonarra crawling through narrow tunnel inside the mines
Conditions inside the mines are truly inhuman and outrageous
(this guy is around 16 years old, working in the mines for 3 years already - will last ca. 5-10 more years, then will very probably die of pneumonia as all other miners )
Next stop was Sucre, the constitutional capital of the country (no, the official capital is not La Paz) and also UNESCO Heritage site. Miguel was still struggling with the Potosí disease, therefore Don Madonarra and El Fredovito had to explore the town on their own. They enjoyed a pleasant afternoon in this whitewashed city, visited all main historical sights and Cal Orcko - cement quarry and a dinosaur museum boasting huge ancient wall with hundreds of different original dinosaur tracks.
Don Madonarra with hundreds of dinosaur tracks behind him
Dinosaur museum - rather random Bolivian sight
Museum of indigenous cultures in Sucre
Another night bus took them to Oruro. While Don Madonarra went down with the Potosí poisoning as well, El Fredovito had to explore this town alone (note that El Fredovito survived the purgatory of Potosí because he did not go inside the mines). Since no major sights were available, he spent a few hours talking with semi-drunk local guy in a park and then visited nearby Obrajes hot springs for a nice but noisy soak.
Fruit vendor in Oruro's market
Children after school in their typical "Harry Potter" dresses
Last urban stop was La Paz, the de facto capital crouching below snowy Mt. Illamani (6.402 m). La Paz is a metropolis of many faces - from smelly traditional markets and third-world dwellings to impressive top class business centers and skyscrapers, all to be seen there not too far away from each other. Especially memorable was seeing ridiculously embarassing performance of clown called "Trapito" (really well-fitting name, needless to say) and a large street parade (might have been a coincidence, but the crew never saw as many street parades as in Bolivia).
Preacher in front of Palacio Presidencial in La Paz
Embarassing performance of clown "Trapito"
(note that "trapito" is a derivative of Czech "trapný", meaning embarassing :)...)
Breathtaking street parade
Crocodile eating local kids, with modern La Paz in background
The adventurers left La Paz the other day after lunch to continue to Copacabana, small town at the shore of lake Titicaca, where they enjoyed beautiful sunset and spent a night. Program of the following day was a scenic half-day hike around the lake to Yampupata, a tiny settlement where a boat to nearby island Isla del Sol was boarded. After fixing probable the best accomodation of the whole expedition (a small cabin with astonishing lake views for $2 per person), they spent the afternoon walking around the island and went to bed, to wake up early for a lovely sunrise and take a morning boat back to Copacabana. Very last stop in Bolivia was the Yunguyo-Kasani border crossing back to Peru.
Majestic sunset in Copacabana
Some cultural differences along the hike to Yampupata
Enjoying the lake Titicaca sail
Observing sunrise at Isla del Sol
May the Maya be with you! :)
